A First-Timer’s Guide to Bergamo: What to See in the Città Alta and Bassa.
Tucked away in the foothills of the Alps, less than an hour from the bustling metropolis of Milan, lies one of Lombardy’s most enchanting and often overlooked treasures: the city of Bergamo. For the first-time visitor, Bergamo reveals itself not as one city, but as two, each with its own distinct character and charm. There is the Città Bassa, the modern, bustling Lower Town, with its elegant boulevards and vibrant commercial life. And then, perched majestically on a hill above, is the Città Alta, the ancient, walled Upper Town, a breathtaking labyrinth of cobbled streets, medieval towers, and hidden piazzas. To truly know Bergamo is to explore both of these worlds, a journey made effortless and magical by the historic funicular that connects them. This is your essential guide to discovering the very best of this captivating two-tiered city.
The Journey Between Worlds: The Funicular
The perfect Bergamo adventure begins with a journey. The Funicolare Città Alta is more than just a mode of transport; it is a rite of passage, a charming, clanking ascent from the modern world into the heart of history. As the small carriage makes its gentle but steep climb, the rooftops of the Lower Town give way to the formidable stone ramparts of the Upper Town. The short journey is filled with anticipation, and stepping out at the top station into the ancient streets of the Città Alta feels like entering another era. It is the only way to begin.
The Città Alta: A Walk Through History
The Città Alta is the jewel in Bergamo’s crown, a perfectly preserved medieval town encircled by magnificent defensive walls. This is where you will spend the majority of your day, getting lost in its timeless beauty.
The Heart of the City: Piazza Vecchia
All paths in the Città Alta lead to Piazza Vecchia, the city’s breathtakingly beautiful main square. It is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture and civic planning, described by the great architect Le Corbusier as “the most beautiful square in Europe.” It is the perfect place to get your bearings and simply absorb the atmosphere. The square is framed by historic buildings: the arched façade of the Palazzo della Ragione, the city’s old town hall, stands opposite the elegant Palazzo Nuovo, which now houses a library. In the centre, the Contarini Fountain provides a gentle soundtrack. Find a seat at one of the historic cafés, like the famous Caffè del Tasso, and watch the world go by.
A View from the Top: The Campanone
For the best possible view of Piazza Vecchia and the surrounding city, you must ascend the Campanone, or Civic Tower. While you can climb the stairs, a convenient lift whisks you most of the way to the top. From the belfry, you are rewarded with a stunning 360-degree panorama. You can look down directly onto the intricate architecture of the square below, trace the maze of cobbled streets, and gaze out over the Venetian Walls to the modern Città Bassa and the plains of Lombardy beyond. A fascinating local tradition is the tolling of the great bell 100 times every night at 10 PM, a historical remnant of the curfew that once signalled the closing of the city gates.
A Trio of Sacred Wonders
Just behind the Palazzo della Ragione lies a small square containing a breathtaking trio of religious buildings, each a masterpiece in its own right. The most visually stunning from the outside is the Cappella Colleoni, a magnificent Renaissance mausoleum built for the powerful mercenary captain Bartolomeo Colleoni. Its façade is an explosion of intricate detail, with multi-coloured marble, delicate sculptures, and ornate decorations.
Push through the grand doors next to it to enter the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. The contrast is immediate. Where the chapel is bright and ornate, the basilica’s Romanesque exterior is plain, giving no hint of the jaw-dropping Baroque splendour that lies within. The interior is a lavish spectacle of gilded stucco, priceless tapestries, and intricate wooden choir stalls.
Completing the trio is the Duomo di Bergamo, the city’s main cathedral. While perhaps overshadowed by its more flamboyant neighbours, its elegant Neoclassical interior offers a sense of calm and grandeur, and it is a beautiful and important part of the city’s spiritual heart.
A Walk on the Walls
The magnificent Venetian Walls, which encircle the Città Alta for over five kilometres, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Bergamo’s defining features. Built by the Republic of Venice in the 16th century, these formidable fortifications are now a beautiful public park. A walk along the wide, tree-lined ramparts is an essential Bergamo experience. It offers stunning views, shady spots to relax, and a unique perspective on the city’s defensive history.
BERGAMO IS A CITY OF TWO PERFECT HALVES: YOU ASCEND INTO A MEDIEVAL DREAM IN THE CITTÀ ALTA, AND DESCEND BACK INTO ELEGANT ITALIAN REALITY IN THE CITTÀ BASSA. TO EXPERIENCE BOTH IS TO UNDERSTAND ITS UNIQUE AND UTTERLY CAPTIVATING SOUL.
A Fortress with a View: Rocca di Bergamo
For another fantastic viewpoint and a dose of military history, head to the Rocca di Bergamo. This fortress, perched on the hill of Sant’Eufemia, offers a commanding position over the city. You can explore its grounds, visit the small historical museum inside, and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the surrounding park. The views from here are arguably even more expansive than from the Campanone, taking in the full sweep of the Città Alta and the distant mountains.
A Taste of Tradition: Casoncelli and Polenta e Osei
No visit to Bergamo is complete without tasting its signature dishes. The most famous local pasta is casoncelli, a unique ravioli-like pasta stuffed with a mixture of meats, breadcrumbs, and herbs, and typically served with a simple sauce of melted butter, sage, and crispy pancetta. For an authentic taste, seek out a traditional restaurant like Trattoria La Colombina, known for its excellent local cuisine and charming atmosphere.
For a sweet treat, you must try Polenta e Osei. This is not the savoury polenta dish, but a famous local cake designed to look like it. It consists of a dome of sweet sponge cake, covered in yellow almond paste and topped with small chocolate birds. A slice from a historic pastry shop like Pasticceria Cavour is a delicious and iconic Bergamo souvenir. The city’s food scene is so rich that it warrants a deeper exploration, which will be covered in our upcoming article, “A Taste of Lombardy: An Eater’s Guide to Bergamo’s Best Food & Wine.”
Descending to the Città Bassa: The Modern Heart
After a day spent in the medieval past, a descent back to the Città Bassa reveals the elegant, modern side of Bergamo.
The Elegant Promenade: Via XX Settembre and the Sentierone
The main artery of the Lower Town is the Sentierone, a broad, elegant, tree-lined promenade that serves as the city’s public living room. It is flanked by shops, bars, and theatres. Leading off from it is Via XX Settembre, Bergamo’s premier shopping street. A stroll along these boulevards offers a complete contrast to the narrow lanes of the Città Alta, showcasing the city’s 19th and 20th-century architectural elegance and its modern commercial life.
A World of Art: The Accademia Carrara
Art lovers must not miss a visit to the Accademia Carrara, one of Italy’s most important and beautiful art galleries. Housed in a grand Neoclassical building, its collection is a treasure trove of Italian masterpieces, with works by artists such as Raphael, Botticelli, Bellini, and Mantegna. It offers a world-class art experience in a surprisingly uncrowded and intimate setting.
A Modern Counterpoint: GAMeC
Directly opposite the Accademia Carrara is the GAMeC (Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea). This gallery is dedicated to modern and contemporary art, providing a fantastic, thought-provoking contrast to the classical masterpieces across the road. Its dynamic programme of exhibitions showcases Italian and international contemporary artists, making this small piazza a true hub for art lovers of all tastes.
A City of Two Souls
Bergamo is a city of captivating contrasts. It is a place where you can spend the morning walking on 16th-century Venetian walls and the afternoon browsing modern boutiques, where a medieval tower looks down upon a bustling modern city. The beauty of Bergamo lies in this perfect harmony between its two distinct souls – the ancient, historic heart of the Città Alta and the elegant, vibrant life of the Città Bassa. A visit here is a journey through time, a feast for the senses, and a discovery of one of Italy’s most rewarding and beautiful destinations.
