A Taste of Lombardy: An Eater’s Guide to Bergamo’s Best Food & Wine.
To truly know Italy, you must understand that it is not one single culinary entity, but a magnificent mosaic of fiercely proud regional cuisines. And in the heart of Lombardy, nestled between the fertile plains and the dramatic foothills of the Alps, Bergamo offers a taste that is profoundly distinct, deeply satisfying, and a world away from the tomato-and-olive-oil-centric flavours of the south. This is a cuisine of the land, built on butter, rice, polenta, and the rich bounty of its mountains and valleys. It is hearty, honest, and utterly delicious. This eater’s guide will lead you to the essential dishes, the traditional restaurants, and the local wines that define the authentic taste of Bergamo, a true flavour of Lombardy.
The Primi Piatti: A Masterclass in Pasta and Polenta
In Bergamo, the first course is a serious affair, a celebration of comforting starches and savoury fillings that have been perfected over centuries.
Casoncelli alla Bergamasca
This is the undisputed king of Bergamasque pasta, a dish that tells the story of the region on a plate. Casoncelli are a unique half-moon-shaped stuffed pasta, often with a distinctive pinched edge. The filling is a complex and savoury mixture of minced beef and pork, breadcrumbs, parsley, and sometimes raisins or crumbled amaretti biscuits, which add a surprising hint of sweetness. The magic, however, is in the sauce: a simple, perfect dressing of melted butter, fragrant sage leaves, and crispy, salty pancetta. For an impeccable, traditional version, a visit to Trattoria Parietti, a beloved local institution known for its authentic home-style cooking, is essential.
Scarpinòcc de Parre
For a taste of a hyper-local and even more historic pasta, seek out Scarpinòcc de Parre. Originating from the nearby village of Parre in the Seriana Valley, this pasta is named for its shape, which resembles the traditional handmade clogs (scarpinòcc) once worn by the villagers. Unlike casoncelli, the filling is lean, a “magro” mix of cheese (often Grana Padano), breadcrumbs, eggs, and spices. Like its more famous cousin, it is traditionally served with a generous amount of melted butter and sage, allowing the delicate flavour of the filling to shine through. Finding this on a menu at a place like Osteria di Via Solata, which prides itself on traditional recipes, is a sign of a truly authentic kitchen.
Polenta Taragna
Polenta is the soul food of Northern Italy, and in Bergamo, it is revered. While simple yellow polenta is common, the true local speciality is Polenta Taragna. This hearty, rustic dish is made with a mixture of cornmeal and darker, nuttier buckwheat flour, which gives it its characteristic speckled greyish colour. Crucially, it is then enriched with generous amounts of local mountain cheeses, like Branzi or Formai de Mut, which melt into the polenta to create a rich, stringy, and incredibly satisfying dish. It is often served as a main course in its own right, or as an accompaniment to braised meats. A cosy, traditional restaurant like La Tana is the perfect place to enjoy this ultimate Lombard comfort food.
The Secondi: Hearty Dishes from the Hills and Plains
The main courses in Bergamo are robust and flavourful, often featuring slow-cooked meats that are perfect for the cooler mountain climate.
Coniglio al Forno con Polenta
A classic Sunday lunch dish in many Bergamasque households is Coniglio al Forno, or oven-roasted rabbit. The rabbit is typically slow-cooked with white wine, herbs, and pancetta until it is incredibly tender and flavourful. It is almost always served with a side of soft, creamy polenta, which is perfect for soaking up the delicious pan juices. It is a perfect example of rustic, country-style cooking.
Brasato di Manzo al Valcalepio
Another comforting classic is Brasato di Manzo, a hearty beef stew. The beef is slow-braised for hours in a rich sauce, which is often made with the local red wine, Valcalepio Rosso. This long, slow cooking process renders the meat meltingly tender and creates a deep, complex flavour. It is the perfect dish for a chilly evening, and a stalwart on the menu of traditional establishments like Osteria Tre Gobbi, a historic osteria in the Città Bassa.
From the Valleys: Bergamo’s Cheese and Cured Meats
The alpine valleys surrounding Bergamo produce some of Italy’s most celebrated cheeses.
A Tour of Local Cheeses
Exploring the local formaggi is an essential part of any culinary tour. Beyond the famous Taleggio, look out for Branzi and Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Brembana, two superb mountain cheeses from the local valleys. To see and taste an incredible array, visit a specialist cheese shop (formaggeria) in the Città Alta, such as La Bottega dei Sapori Antichi, where the knowledgeable staff can guide you through their selection and offer you a taste.
The Salumi Tradition
While Parma and Bologna are more famous for their cured meats, Bergamo has its own proud salumi tradition. A platter of local salami, perhaps from a historic deli like Salumeria Bricalli, served with some fresh bread, makes for a perfect simple lunch or snack.
TO EAT IN BERGAMO IS TO TASTE THE VERY SOUL OF LOMBARDY – A CUISINE AS HEARTY AND AUTHENTIC AS THE MOUNTAINS THAT SURROUND IT, AND AS RICH AND REFINED AS THE HISTORY WITHIN ITS WALLS.
Sweet Endings & Local Wines
Bergamo’s desserts are unique and iconic, and its wines are a delightful discovery.
The Iconic Cake: Polenta e Osei
You will see this whimsical creation in the window of every pasticceria in the city. Polenta e Osei (“polenta and birds”) is a sweet cake designed to look like its savoury namesake. A dome of sweet sponge, often filled with a chocolate, butter, and hazelnut cream, is covered in yellow almond paste and crystalline sugar to resemble polenta. It is then famously topped with small, meticulously crafted chocolate birds. For the definitive version, a visit to the historic and elegant Pasticceria Cavour in the Città Alta is a must.
A Tribute to a Maestro: Torta Donizetti
Bergamo’s other famous cake is the Torta Donizetti, a ring-shaped, doughnut-like cake (ciambella) named after the city’s most famous son, the opera composer Gaetano Donizetti. It is a light, buttery sponge cake, studded with candied pineapple and apricot and dusted with icing sugar. It is a wonderfully simple yet delicious cake, perfect with a morning coffee. A historic café in the Città Bassa, like the Grand Balzer, is the perfect place to try it.
The Local Wine: Valcalepio and Moscato di Scanzo
While dining, be sure to explore the local wines. The main regional designation is Valcalepio DOC. The Rosso is a smooth, easy-drinking red perfect for pairing with meat dishes, while the Bianco is a crisp, refreshing white. For a truly special and rare taste, wine lovers should seek out Moscato di Scanzo DOCG. This is a prestigious sweet red passito wine, made from dried grapes in a tiny area just outside Bergamo. It is a rich, complex “meditation wine,” perfect for sipping after a meal, perhaps with a piece of strong local cheese.
The Modern and the Traditional Experience
A Market Morning
For a true slice of local life, spend a morning at the Mercato del Sabato (Saturday Market) that often takes place in the streets of the Città Bassa. Here you will find everything from fresh produce and local cheeses to clothing and household goods. It is a vibrant, bustling affair and a fantastic place to see the city’s residents go about their weekly shop.
The Aperitivo Ritual
As evening approaches, the city embraces the aperitivo ritual. While the Città Alta offers historic settings, the Città Bassa is where you will find the modern, bustling aperitivo scene. A stylish bar like Tassino Café is renowned for its generous and high-quality buffet, which comes included with the price of your evening drink. This lively social custom is explored in more detail in our dedicated guide to Bergamo’s best bars.
The Soul of Lombardy on a Plate
The cuisine of Bergamo is a proud and delicious testament to its landscape and its history. It is a food culture built on the bounty of the mountains and the richness of the plains, where simple, high-quality ingredients are transformed into dishes of immense comfort and flavour. To eat here is to step away from the familiar and discover a corner of Italy with a distinct and deeply satisfying culinary soul. A meal in Bergamo is more than just a feast; it is a warm, hearty welcome to the true taste of Lombardy.
