A Taste of Lombardy: Discovering Bergamo’s Best Restaurants
In the shadow of the Alps, the beautiful two-tiered city of Bergamo offers a culinary journey that is as distinct and captivating as its unique geography. This is the heart of Lombardy, a region known for its rich, comforting, and deeply satisfying cuisine, where butter and rice often take precedence over olive oil and pasta, and where polenta is a revered staple. To dine in Bergamo is to taste this hearty heritage, from the rustic, family-run trattorias tucked away on the cobbled streets of the Città Alta to the elegant, contemporary restaurants of the modern Città Bassa. Forget the familiar flavours of the south; this is a different kind of Italian cooking, and it is utterly delicious. This guide will lead you to the tables where Bergamo’s culinary soul is best expressed, a true taste of Lombardy.
The Historic Heart: Traditional Dining in the Città Alta
The ancient, walled Upper Town is where you will find restaurants steeped in history, serving the timeless dishes that define the region.
Trattoria La Colombina
Nestled just outside the main gate of the Città Alta, with a stunning view back towards the Venetian walls, Trattoria La Colombina is a beloved institution. The name means “The Little Dove,” and the atmosphere inside is just as charming and welcoming. This is the perfect place to try one of Bergamo’s most essential dishes: casoncelli alla bergamasca. Here, the half-moon-shaped pasta parcels, stuffed with a savoury mix of meat and herbs, are served perfectly, glistening in a classic sauce of melted butter, sage, and crispy pancetta. The menu is a celebration of local tradition, and a meal on their terrace on a warm evening is an unforgettable experience.
Da Mimmo
A cornerstone of the Città Alta dining scene since 1953, Da Mimmo is a place that exudes history and quality. Located in the heart of the old town on the characterful Via Bartolomeo Colleoni, it is famous for its commitment to traditional recipes and high-quality ingredients. While offering a full menu of Bergamasque classics, it is particularly renowned for its exceptional pizza, which many locals consider to be the best in the city. It is a bustling, atmospheric restaurant that perfectly balances the feel of a classic trattoria with a touch of elegance.
Hostaria del Relais San Lorenzo
For a dining experience with a truly unique historical backdrop, the Hostaria del Relais San Lorenzo is unparalleled. Located within the luxurious Relais San Lorenzo hotel, the restaurant is set amongst beautifully preserved Roman and medieval archaeological remains, which are visible through glass floors. The cuisine is a refined and elegant interpretation of local Lombard flavours, offering a sophisticated menu in a breathtaking setting. It is a perfect choice for a special occasion where the ambiance is as important as the exquisite food.
The Modern Pulse: Dining in the Città Bassa
The Lower Town offers a different energy, with elegant avenues and a more contemporary dining scene that still honours its Lombard roots.
Osteria Tre Gobbi
One of the most historic and respected establishments in the Città Bassa, Osteria Tre Gobbi (“The Three Hunchbacks”) has been serving customers since 1890. It offers a wonderfully authentic atmosphere, with traditional wooden decor and a menu that is a veritable encyclopaedia of Bergamasque and Lombard cuisine. It is a fantastic place to explore beyond the most famous dishes and try other regional specialities, all prepared with a deep respect for tradition. The wine list is also excellent, featuring many local producers.
L’Osteria di Via Solata
A charming and highly-regarded osteria in the Lower Town, L’Osteria di Via Solata is known for its warm, intimate atmosphere and its delicious, well-prepared traditional food. It feels like a true neighbourhood gem, a place where locals go for a reliable and satisfying meal. The menu is driven by the seasons, and the fresh pasta is a particular highlight. It is a perfect example of a classic Italian osteria, where good food, good wine, and good company are the main ingredients.
Ristorante Lalimentari
Located in the heart of the Città Bassa, Ristorante Lalimentari offers a modern and stylish take on Italian dining. The concept is part-restaurant, part-delicatessen, with a focus on high-quality, artisanal ingredients. The menu is creative, offering contemporary interpretations of classic dishes alongside beautifully prepared platters of cheese and cured meats. It is a vibrant, popular spot, perfect for a sophisticated lunch or a lively dinner.
IN BERGAMO, EVERY DISH TELLS A STORY OF THE LANDSCAPE; THE HEARTINESS OF THE MOUNTAINS IS IN ITS PASTA, AND THE RICHNESS OF THE LOMBARD PLAIN IS IN ITS SAUCES. IT’S A TRUE TASTE OF NORTHERN ITALIAN SOUL.
Elevated Dining: Bergamo’s Gastronomic Stars
For those seeking a truly exceptional culinary experience, Bergamo is home to several restaurants where innovation and artistry take centre stage.
Casual Ristorante
Perched on the hill of the Città Alta, with breathtaking views over the city, the Michelin-starred Casual Ristorante is one of the city’s premier dining destinations. Run by the celebrated chef Enrico Bartolini, the restaurant offers a more accessible and informal approach to fine dining. The menu is a brilliant, contemporary exploration of Italian cuisine, with dishes that are both inventive and delicious, all served in a stylish, modern setting with an unbeatable panorama. Booking is essential.
Impronte
Another holder of a coveted Michelin star, Impronte is a restaurant that pushes the boundaries of Italian cuisine. The name means “imprints” or “footprints,” and the philosophy is about leaving a mark with creative, bold, and technically brilliant cooking. The tasting menus are a journey of unexpected flavours and textures, beautifully presented in a sleek, modern dining room. It is a destination for adventurous foodies seeking a truly memorable gastronomic experience.
Essential Tastes and Culinary Experiences
Beyond the restaurant table, certain flavours and experiences are essential to understanding Bergamo’s food culture.
The Iconic Cake: Polenta e Osei
You will see this famous cake in the window of every pastry shop (pasticceria) in Bergamo. Polenta e Osei (“polenta and birds”) is a sweet, whimsical creation designed to look like a savoury dish. It is a dome of sponge cake, often filled with chocolate or hazelnut cream, covered in yellow almond paste to resemble polenta, and topped with small marzipan or chocolate birds. For the most authentic version, head to the historic Pasticceria Cavour in the Città Alta, where they have been perfecting the recipe for generations.
The King of Cheeses: Taleggio
Bergamo is a gateway to some of Italy’s great cheese-producing valleys. The most famous local cheese is Taleggio, a soft, pungent, washed-rind cheese with a creamy texture and a surprisingly mild, fruity flavour. Seek it out on a restaurant’s cheese board, or buy a wedge from a local delicatessen. It is a true taste of the Lombard hills.
The Local Wine: Valcalepio DOC
While Lombardy is famous for the sparkling wines of Franciacorta, the hills immediately surrounding Bergamo have their own protected wine designation, Valcalepio DOC. The red (Rosso) is typically a smooth, well-balanced blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, while the white (Bianco) is a crisp blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio. Ordering a bottle of Valcalepio with your meal is the perfect way to drink like a local.
A Culinary Walk
The best way to connect with the city’s food scene is simply to walk. Start in the Città Bassa and stroll along the elegant Via XX Settembre, the main shopping street, before taking the funicular up to the Città Alta. As detailed in our First-Timer’s Guide to Bergamo, this journey is a magical transition. Once at the top, wander the main thoroughfare of Via Gombito, peeking into historic bakeries and food shops, before finding a spot for lunch. This simple walk connects the modern city with its ancient culinary heart.
A Lombard Feast to Remember
To dine in Bergamo is to discover a proud and delicious corner of Italy that is too often overlooked. It is a cuisine of the mountains and the plains, a world of rich butter sauces, hearty polenta, and complex, savoury pastas. The city’s restaurants, from the most humble trattoria to the most celebrated fine dining establishment, share a common thread: a deep and abiding respect for the traditions and the magnificent produce of Lombardy. A meal here is more than just dinner; it is a warm, comforting, and utterly satisfying taste of Northern Italian soul.
