Seville, the vibrant heart of Andalusia, is a city that lives and breathes its traditions. And nowhere is this more evident than in its authentic watering holes, the traditional bars and taverns where locals gather to socialize, enjoy a drink, and savour the simple pleasures of life. Forget the trendy cocktail bars and tourist traps; if you want to truly experience the soul of Seville, you need to drink like a local.

This guide will take you on a journey through some of the city’s most authentic watering holes, places where you can sip sherry alongside seasoned regulars, learn the art of tapeo, and discover the true meaning of Sevillian hospitality. Get ready to step back in time, embrace the local customs, and experience Seville’s drinking culture at its most genuine.

The Timeless Charm of Traditional Taverns

Seville’s traditional taverns, often family-run for generations, are more than just bars; they’re social hubs, living museums, and guardians of the city’s cultural heritage. Here are a few of the best:

Casa Morales: Founded in 1850, Casa Morales is a Seville institution. Stepping inside is like stepping back in time, with its giant wine barrels, antique azulejo tiles, and hams hanging from the ceiling. The atmosphere is lively and bustling, especially during peak hours. Locals and tourists alike flock here for the authentic ambiance and the excellent selection of sherries, wines, and traditional tapas. It is a great place to shelter from the heat during the summer months. If you need more tips on how to deal with the heat, then check out my blog post: “Top Tips for Surviving Seville’s Summer Heat“.

El Rinconcillo: Claiming the title of Seville’s oldest bar, dating back to 1670, El Rinconcillo exudes history and charm. The bartenders still tally your bill in chalk on the wooden bar top, a tradition that adds to the bar’s unique character. The selection of sherries and wines is impressive, and the tapas are simple yet delicious. Try the solomillo al whisky (pork loin in whisky sauce) or the espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) for a true taste of Seville. It gets very busy here, but it is well worth a visit.

Bar Alfalfa: Located in the heart of the Alfalfa district, this small, unassuming bar is a local favourite. The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming, and the focus is on good, honest drinks and simple tapas. It’s a great place to experience the authentic side of Seville, away from the tourist crowds.

The Art of Tapeo: More Than Just a Meal

In Seville, going out for drinks often involves tapeo, the art of hopping from bar to bar, enjoying a drink and a small plate of food at each stop. It’s a social ritual, a way to catch up with friends, and a delicious way to sample a variety of local specialties.

Order a Caña or a Tubo: When ordering beer, ask for a caña (a small glass) or a tubo (a slightly larger, narrow glass). This allows you to sample different beers without getting too full. If ordering beer, you will find that the most common, and readily available, is Cruzcampo.

Embrace the Sherry: Don’t be afraid to try the local sherry. Ask the bartender for a recommendation based on your preferences. Start with a dry Fino or Manzanilla and work your way up to the sweeter varieties if you like. If you are new to this fortified wine, then the bar staff will be more than happy to guide you through the options available.

Share with Friends: Tapeo is best enjoyed with company. Order a few different tapas to share and experience a wider range of flavours.

Stand at the Bar: Locals often stand at the bar, especially during peak hours. It’s a great way to soak up the atmosphere and interact with the bartenders.

Beyond the Tourist Trail: Discovering Hidden Gems

While the bars mentioned above are excellent starting points, some of the most authentic watering holes are found off the beaten path, tucked away in residential neighbourhoods or hidden down unassuming alleyways.

Bar Tour: One of the best ways to discover these hidden gems is to simply wander and explore. Choose a neighbourhood, like Triana or Alameda, and start exploring its side streets. Look for bars that are filled with locals, and don’t be afraid to step inside, even if you don’t recognize anything on the menu.

Ask for Recommendations: Don’t hesitate to ask your hotel concierge, a friendly shop owner, or even a fellow traveller for recommendations. Locals are often happy to share their favourite spots with visitors.

Look for the Details: Authentic local bars often have certain characteristics: a chalkboard menu, hams hanging from the ceiling, old men playing dominoes in the corner, and a general lack of pretension.

A Final Toast: Embracing the Sevillian Spirit

Drinking like a local in Seville is about more than just the drinks themselves; it’s about embracing the city’s culture, its traditions, and its way of life. It’s about slowing down, savouring the moment, and connecting with the people around you. So, on your next trip to Seville, venture beyond the tourist traps, seek out these authentic watering holes, and raise a glass to the city’s enduring charm. You’ll discover that the true spirit of Seville is best experienced one sip, one tapa, and one conversation at a time.