Marseille & Pastis: Exploring the City’s Signature Spirit
Marseille. Sun, sea, and… pastis. It’s a combination that’s practically inseparable, isn’t it? That sharp, anise-flavoured kick, with its subtle sweetness and herbal notes, is the taste of the sun-drenched south, the very essence of Marseille. But there’s more to it than just a refreshing drink; there’s a whole history, a culture, a way of life wrapped up in that cloudy glass. Forget the touristy clichés; we’re diving deep into Marseille’s love affair with pastis.
A History Steeped in Anise
The story of pastis is intertwined with the history of absinthe. When absinthe, with its high alcohol content and reputation for hallucinogenic effects, was banned in France in 1915, pastis emerged as its legal substitute. Distillers in Marseille, with their expertise in blending herbs and spices, perfected the recipe for this new anise-flavoured spirit.
The name “pastis” comes from the Provençal word “pastiche,” meaning “mixture,” reflecting the blend of ingredients that make up this unique drink. While anise is the dominant flavour, pastis also typically includes other herbs and spices, such as fennel, liquorice root, and star anise.
Pastis quickly became popular in Marseille, particularly among the working class. It was a refreshing and affordable drink that could be enjoyed in the city’s numerous cafés and bars. Over time, it became an integral part of Marseille’s social fabric, a symbol of its identity and its way of life.
The Pastis Ritual: A Social Affair
Drinking pastis in Marseille is more than just quenching your thirst; it’s a social ritual. It’s about slowing down, feeling the warmth of the sun on your skin, the gentle sea breeze carrying the scent of salt and herbs, and losing yourself in conversation with friends.
The preparation of pastis is an important part of the ritual. It’s typically served in a tall glass with ice and water. The amount of water added is a matter of personal preference, but it usually ranges from five to eight parts water to one part pastis. As the water is added, the clear amber liquid transforms into a swirling, cloudy, opalescent drink, releasing its potent aroma.
Pastis is often enjoyed as an apéritif, before a meal. It’s a way to stimulate the appetite and prepare for the culinary delights to come. It’s also a drink that can be enjoyed throughout the day, especially in the afternoon, when the sun is high and the pace of life slows down.
PASTIS IS THE SUN IN A GLASS, THE SOUND OF THE VIEUX-PORT, THE TASTE OF MARSEILLE’S SOUL.
Where to Raise a Glass: Marseille’s Pastis Havens
Marseille offers a range of places where you can experience the pastis ritual, from traditional bars to trendy cafés. These venues aren’t just places to drink; they’re social hubs where the spirit of Marseille comes alive.
Bar de la Marine is a legendary bar located on the Vieux-Port. It’s a proper Marseille institution, immortalized in literature and film, and known for its lively atmosphere and its strong connection to the city’s maritime history. For generations, sailors, fishermen, and locals have gathered here to share stories, laughter, and a glass of pastis. Enjoying a pastis here, with the views of the harbour and the sounds of the city, is a quintessential Marseille experience. The gentle clinking of glasses, the lively chatter of locals, and the salty tang of the sea air all blend together to create an unforgettable ambiance.
Another classic spot is Bar du Marché. This bar, located in the Noailles district, is a popular hangout for locals. It’s a great place to soak up the multicultural atmosphere of the neighbourhood and enjoy a pastis with a side of olives and tapenade. The vibrant energy of the market, with its bustling crowds and exotic aromas, spills over into the bar, creating a truly authentic and immersive experience.
For a more modern take on the pastis experience, head to La Caravelle. This bar, located near the Old Port, offers a stylish setting and a range of pastis variations. They also have a rooftop terrace with stunning views of the city. Sipping a pastis on this terrace as the sun sets over the Marseille skyline is a truly magical experience, a perfect blend of tradition and contemporary flair. If you are exploring Marseille’s culinary scene, you might want to read my article A Food Tour of Marseille: Savouring the City’s Local Flavours.
Beyond the Bars: Pastis and Marseille’s Culture
Pastis is more than just a drink; it’s woven into the very fabric of Marseille’s culture. It echoes in the lyrics of local folk songs, the pages of Marcel Pagnol’s novels, and even the vibrant canvases of Marseille’s artists. It’s a symbol of the city’s identity, its history, and its way of life.
To truly understand Marseille’s connection to pastis, you need to immerse yourself in the city’s atmosphere. Wander through the narrow streets of Le Panier, explore the bustling markets of Noailles, and soak up the sun on the Vieux-Port. Listen to the local accent, the sounds of the city, and the laughter of the people. And, of course, enjoy a glass of pastis, shared with friends or savoured in solitude.
A Taste of Marseille: The Spirit of Pastis and the Soul of the City
Pastis is more than just a drink in Marseille; it’s a cultural touchstone, a taste of the city’s soul. Exploring its history and enjoying it in the city’s bars and cafés is an essential part of experiencing Marseille. It’s a chance to connect with its people, to understand its traditions, and to savour the spirit of the south, one anise-flavoured sip at a time.
