The Art of Aperitivo: A Guide to Bergamo’s Most Charming Wine Bars
As the afternoon sun casts long shadows across the ancient stones of the Città Alta and the elegant avenues of the Città Bassa, a cherished daily ritual begins to unfold across Bergamo. This is the hour of the aperitivo, a tradition that is far more than just a pre-dinner drink. It is a cultural institution, a moment to pause, to socialise, and to whet the appetite for the evening meal to come. It is in the city’s wonderful wine bars, or enoteche, that this art form is perfected. From historic, stone-vaulted cellars serving rare local vintages to chic, modern lounges offering creative cocktails and generous buffets, Bergamo’s bar scene is a journey of discovery. This is your guide to uncorking the very best of the city, one delicious glass at a time.
The Historic Heart: Sipping in the Città Alta
Enjoying an aperitivo in the ancient, walled Upper Town is an experience steeped in atmosphere and history. The air is calmer, the views are breathtaking, and the bars are often intimate, characterful, and utterly charming.
A Drink in Italy’s Most Beautiful Square
There is no more iconic place to begin your aperitivo journey than on Piazza Vecchia. Finding a table at a historic establishment like Caffè del Tasso, which has been serving patrons since 1476, is a quintessential Bergamo experience. While it is a place for a morning coffee, it transforms in the early evening. Ordering a classic Aperol Spritz or a glass of local Franciacorta here, as the golden light illuminates the magnificent Palazzo della Ragione and the Contarini Fountain, is to drink in centuries of history. The experience is less about the drink itself and more about the unparalleled beauty of your surroundings.
A Cellar for the Connoisseur: Enoteca La Tana
For those who are truly passionate about wine, a visit to Enoteca La Tana is non-negotiable. Tucked away on a cobbled side street, this exceptional wine bar is a sanctuary for oenophiles. The interior is a cosy, atmospheric cellar with stone-vaulted ceilings and walls lined with an incredible selection of bottles. The focus here is on small, independent, and often natural wine producers from across Italy and beyond. The owner is incredibly knowledgeable and passionate, and a conversation with him is an education in itself. Let him guide you to a unique glass of wine you have never tried before, paired perfectly with a platter of exquisite local cheeses and cured meats.
Vino e Cucina with a View
Just outside the city walls, near the San Vigilio funicular, Ristorante Baretto di San Vigilio offers one of the most breathtaking aperitivo spots in the city. While it is a full restaurant, its terrace is a magnificent place to enjoy a pre-dinner glass of wine. From here, you can enjoy stunning panoramic views over the historic rooftops of the Città Alta as the sun begins to set. It is a truly romantic and unforgettable setting for a special drink.
The Literary Sip: Caffè Letterario
Housed within the historic building of the Biblioteca Civica Angelo Mai on Piazza Vecchia, the Caffè Letterario offers a more tranquil and cultured aperitivo experience. It is a place to enjoy a quiet glass of wine surrounded by the intellectual heritage of the city, a peaceful escape from the more bustling tourist spots.
The Modern Pulse: Aperitivo in the Città Bassa
Descending to the Lower Town, the atmosphere shifts. The aperitivo scene here is often more modern, lively, and centred around elegant boulevards and bustling commercial streets.
The Aperitivo Institution: Tassino Café
Located in the heart of the Città Bassa’s social hub, Tassino Café is famous among locals for its exceptional aperitivo. This is a prime example of the modern Italian aperitivo buffet, or apericena, where the food offering is so generous it can often serve as a light dinner. When you order a drink here in the evening, you are granted access to a beautifully presented and delicious spread of snacks, including mini pizzas, small sandwiches, pasta salads, and other creative bites. The atmosphere is chic, modern, and always buzzing.
A World of Wine at Pandemonio
Pandemonio is a fantastic modern enoteca and wine shop in the Lower Town that offers an incredible selection of wines from all over Italy and the world. It is a place where you can go to discover something new, with a fantastic range available by the glass. The staff are knowledgeable and can help you navigate their vast collection. It is a more contemporary wine bar experience, perfect for those who want to explore beyond the local classics.
Cocktails and Charm at Barrier
For those who fancy a change from wine, Barrier is one of Bergamo’s most respected cocktail bars. This intimate and sophisticated lounge is where mixology is treated as a high art form. The bartenders craft exquisite classic and contemporary cocktails with precision and flair. While cocktails are the star, they also have a good selection of wines and spirits, making it a perfect spot for a refined pre-dinner drink in a stylish setting.
A Neighbourhood Favourite: La Ciotola
For a truly authentic, local experience in the Città Bassa, seek out a neighbourhood wine bar like La Ciotola. This unpretentious and welcoming spot is where local residents meet for a glass of wine and a chat after work. It is known for its excellent selection of wines by the glass, its delicious small plates (piattini), and its incredibly friendly atmosphere. It is a world away from the tourist trail and offers a genuine taste of everyday Bergamasque life.
THE BERGAMO APERITIVO IS A DAILY RITUAL THAT BEAUTIFULLY CAPTURES THE CITY’S DUALITY: IT HAS THE TIMELESS ELEGANCE OF HISTORY IN THE CITTÀ ALTA, AND THE VIBRANT, STYLISH PULSE OF MODERN ITALY IN THE CITTÀ BASSA.
Essential Aperitivo Tastes and Traditions
The Classic Drinks
While wine is wonderful, the classic aperitivo cocktails are a must-try. The iconic ruby-red Campari Spritz offers a more bitter and complex alternative to its sweeter Aperol cousin. For a true classic, try a Negroni Sbagliato, invented in Milan, which substitutes the gin in a classic Negroni for sparkling wine, making it a lighter and more effervescent choice.
The Local Bubbly: Franciacorta
While Prosecco is famous worldwide, when in Lombardy, you must drink Franciacorta. This is Italy’s most prestigious traditional-method sparkling wine, made in the same way as Champagne and often rivalling it for quality. A glass of crisp, elegant Franciacorta is the perfect way to start any evening in Bergamo.
The Local Still Wine: Valcalepio DOC
When ordering a still wine, look for the local Valcalepio DOC on the menu. The hills surrounding Bergamo produce excellent, easy-drinking red and white wines under this designation. The Valcalepio Rosso, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, is a smooth and versatile red that pairs beautifully with local cured meats.
From Aperitivo to Dinner
The aperitivo ritual is designed to open the appetite, not to replace dinner. After enjoying a drink and some snacks, the natural next step is to head to one of the city’s fantastic restaurants for a proper meal. For a comprehensive guide on where to enjoy the best local dishes, from casoncelli to polenta, be sure to check out our dedicated article, A Taste of Lombardy: Discovering Bergamo’s Best Restaurants.
The Art of the Evening Pause
The aperitivo in Bergamo is more than just a happy hour; it is a cherished cultural ritual that bridges the gap between the working day and the evening meal. It is a moment to slow down, to meet with friends, and to indulge in the simple, profound pleasures of a good drink and a tasty bite. Whether you are sipping a Spritz in a magnificent medieval piazza or discovering a natural wine in a hidden cellar, participating in this tradition is to experience the very essence of Italian social life. It is the art of the perfect pause, and in a city as beautiful as Bergamo, it is an art well worth mastering.
