Uncovering Bergamo’s Best Artisan Bakeries & Coffee Shops
The story of an Italian city is often best told not in its grand museums, but in the simple, sacred rituals of its daily life. In Bergamo, that story begins at the counter of a local bar with the sharp, potent aroma of a freshly pulled espresso, and in the warm, buttery scent of a neighbourhood bakery, or forno, coming to life at dawn. To explore this city is to explore its cafés and bakeries, the true social hubs where the community gathers, traditions are upheld, and the craft of baking is revered. Forget the generic chains; the real soul of Bergamo is found in its independent, artisan establishments. This is your guide to uncovering those hidden gems, from historic pastry shops in the Città Alta to modern specialty coffee bars in the Città Bassa.
The Historic Heights: Coffee and Cakes in the Città Alta
The ancient, walled Upper Town is a place of timeless charm, and its bakeries and cafés are steeped in history, offering a taste of tradition in a magnificent setting.
The Home of an Icon: Pasticceria Cavour
No foodie pilgrimage to Bergamo is complete without a visit to Pasticceria Cavour. Located just off the main Piazza Vecchia, this elegant, historic pastry shop is a Bergamasque institution. It is most famous as one of the definitive places to try the city’s iconic cake, Polenta e Osei. Here, the whimsical creation—a dome of sponge cake and cream, covered in yellow almond paste and topped with chocolate birds—is executed to perfection. Enjoy a slice at one of their small, elegant tables with a cappuccino for a truly classic Bergamo experience. The window display alone, filled with jewel-like pastries and elaborate cakes, is a beautiful sight to behold.
A Drink with History: Caffè del Tasso
Occupying a prime position on the magnificent Piazza Vecchia since 1476, Caffè del Tasso is more than just a coffee shop; it is a piece of living history. It has been the city’s public living room for centuries, a place where locals and visitors have gathered to talk, to watch, and to be seen. While its terrace is a wonderful spot for an evening aperitivo, starting your morning here with a coffee offers a different kind of magic. Sit outside and watch the square awaken, admiring the stunning architecture of the Palazzo della Ragione and the Contarini Fountain. It is a place to savour the moment as much as the coffee.
The Baker of the Upper Town: Il Fornaio
On the main thoroughfare of Via Gombito, Il Fornaio is a fantastic example of a traditional Città Alta bakery. The scent of fresh bread draws you in, and inside you will find a wonderful array of local bread specialities, from rustic loaves to classic Bergamasque cakes. This is the perfect place to grab a slice of savoury focaccia for a quick snack while exploring or to pick up some traditional biscuits to take home. It is an authentic, no-frills bakery that serves the local community with pride.
The Birthplace of a Legend: La Marianna
Just outside the Sant’Agostino gate, near the top station of the funicular, lies La Marianna. This elegant pasticceria and café holds a very special place in global culinary history: it is the birthplace of Stracciatella gelato, invented here in 1961. While the gelato is a must-try, La Marianna is also a superb, classic Italian café. Its large terrace is a wonderful place to relax after exploring the Città Alta, offering a full range of excellent pastries, cakes, and, of course, expertly made coffee.
The Modern Buzz: The Coffee Scene of the Città Bassa
Descending to the Lower Town, the pace changes, and the coffee scene reflects a more modern, contemporary energy, with specialty roasters and stylish cafés.
For the Coffee Purist: Bugan Coffee Lab
For those who are serious about their coffee, a visit to Bugan Coffee Lab is essential. This is not your average Italian bar; it is a true specialty coffee shop and micro-roastery. Here, the focus is on single-origin beans, precise brewing methods (from V60 to Aeropress), and the art of the perfect extraction. The baristas are passionate and incredibly knowledgeable, happy to discuss the flavour profiles of different beans. It is a place to slow down and appreciate the complexity of coffee, a modern counterpoint to the traditional Italian espresso bar.
The Grand Boulevard Café: Balzer
A historic institution in the heart of the Città Bassa, Balzer has been an elegant meeting point for the people of Bergamo since 1850. With its grand interior, classic uniformed staff, and a prime location on the Sentierone, it is the Lower Town’s answer to Caffè del Tasso. It is the perfect place for a sophisticated coffee break after some shopping on Via XX Settembre. Balzer is also one of the best places to try Bergamo’s other famous cake, the Torta Donizetti, a light, ring-shaped cake studded with candied fruits, named after the city’s famous opera composer.
A Sweet and Cosy Corner: Sweet Irene
Offering a different, more modern and intimate café experience, Sweet Irene is a delightful find. This cosy spot is known for its fantastic homemade cakes, often with an Anglo-American influence, think delicious cheesecakes, brownies, and cupcakes. It is a warm, welcoming place with a charming, slightly rustic decor, perfect for a relaxed afternoon coffee and a slice of something comforting and delicious.
IN BERGAMO, THE DAY IS PUNCTUATED BY DELICIOUS RITUALS; THE QUICK, POWERFUL ESPRESSO AT A LOCAL BAR IS THE CITY’S INHALE, AND THE SWEET, LINGERING PASTRY IS ITS CONTENTED EXHALE.
Essential Tastes and Traditions
The Savoury Side of the Bakery
Do not forget that Italian bakeries are masters of savoury as well as sweet. A fantastic and affordable lunch can be found in the form of a pizzetta (a small, individual pizza) or a slice of savoury tart. Look out for brioche salata, a savoury brioche often filled with prosciutto or cheese. These handheld treats are a perfect, quick meal for a day of sightseeing, a topic explored further in our Ultimate Guide to Street Food in Bergamo.
The Art of the Mignon
One of the great joys of an Italian pasticceria is the tradition of mignon pastries. These are exquisite, bite-sized versions of classic cakes and tarts. Creating your own small platter by choosing a few different mignons—perhaps a tiny fruit tart, a miniature chocolate éclair, and a small cream-filled choux bun—is a wonderful way to sample the full range of a pastry chef’s artistry without committing to a single large slice. A high-end pastry shop like Tresoldi in the Città Alta is a perfect place to discover these tiny treasures.
Decoding the Coffee Counter
A key tip for enjoying coffee like a local is to understand the culture of the bar counter, or “al banco”. In most Italian bars, the price for a coffee consumed standing at the counter is significantly cheaper than if you take a table (al tavolo), which incurs a service charge. The quick, standing espresso is a social ritual and the most authentic way to get your caffeine fix.
A Picnic with a View
One of the best ways to enjoy the fruits of Bergamo’s artisan bakeries is with a picnic. First, visit a traditional delicatessen (salumeria) to buy some local cheese, like the famous Taleggio, and some Bergamasque salami. Then, head to a bakery for a fresh loaf of bread. Take your simple feast for a walk along the magnificent Venetian Walls, find a bench with a view, and enjoy an unforgettable lunch.
A Modern Brunch Spot: Com’era
For those seeking a more contemporary brunch experience, a café like Com’era in the Città Bassa is a great find. It offers a modern menu that might include items like avocado toast, pancakes, and specialty coffee drinks, alongside Italian classics. It represents the new, international face of Bergamo’s café scene and is popular with a younger, stylish crowd.
The Heartbeat of the City
The bakeries and coffee shops of Bergamo are the true heartbeat of the city. They are where the day begins, where friends meet, where business is discussed, and where life’s small victories are celebrated with a sweet treat. From the historic grandeur of a café on Piazza Vecchia to the focused passion of a modern specialty coffee roaster, each establishment offers a unique window into the soul of this beautiful Lombard city. To take the time to participate in these daily rituals is to discover the simple, delicious, and enduring pleasures of Bergamasque life.
